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The zapper is a therapy device, invented by Dr. Clark and is known worldwide. It kills small microorganisms such as parasites and gives energy to our white blood cells. To find out more about zapper go here: www.clark-zapper.net
Cats, dogs and horses have remarkably similar blood to ours. Clues to their condition can be read in it as easily as in ours. They too have been struck by the 5 immunity-destroying toxins in the recent past. They now get new diseases as a result of this, like we do. But there is a difference between them and us. They recover much faster! If you are gazing with long glances at your terminally ill pet, given up by your compassionate vet, and would like to give it one more try, here is how you would do it.
As soon as you have decided JUMP into action. Rush to the grocery store for bottled water that has been distilled but nothing more! No extra filtration or treatment of any kind should be listed on the label. Purchase NSF quality if available. It should have no chlorination as if for aquarium fish. Use a chlorine test kit for this. Also purchase a conductivity indicator to test for heavy metals. There should be none. Get several brands of distilled water so you can be sure to find one that is good. The bottle should be the 1-gallon size made of polyethylene which is opaque like milk bottles. Different size bottles of an identical brand can be produced by different bottlers and get different disinfection. Next, order several packages of activated charcoal and a pitcher filter. Almost all the activated charcoal in the market has laundry bleach contamination. If yours does not you only need to boil it for 5 minutes in a quart of the distilled water to get the ruthenium, rubidium, and rhodium out of the charcoal itself. Pour off the water. Do not rinse. Just replace it after heat treating the pitcher and plastic filter holder. This can now remove leftover metals in the distilled water. Next, order the two ingredients for Lugol's solution .
As you rush about, give your pet meaningful glances and a few words telling it to hang in there; something marvelous is going to happen. Communicate with a very light touch, not to be oppressive. Promise it that if he or she gets well you'll do something for its cat cousins or dog family. Its eyes may be closed, but this promise will keep you both strong. You will be the natural doctor and cat or dog will be a good patient. It is a subtle bargain they both understand after the vet has offered it eternal sleep.
We will treat a cat first, then a dog. Although numerous people have sent faxes about how they successfully treated their horses for cancers, I do not have enough cases to write a general recipe. But cats and dogs have provided more. They respond remarkably well to natural doctoring.
There will be 3 parts of curing cat cancer. How much you do depends on how advanced she is. Stop treating when she recovers.
Part I of curing cat's cancer is with diet and supplements Buy a steak platter of stainless steel to feed cat on; test the platter for seepage with the conductivity indicator. There must be none. Or you may cut a temporary dish from a water bottle. Throw away old dishes or anything washed with your sink water. They have PCBs, benzene and motor oil smeared over them. Your kitchen faucet is bringing laundry bleach to your pet's water and dishes. Purchased pet food already has this bleach 9 times out of 10.
The principle is this: Feed NOTHING that is toxic - not in water nor in solid food. It is a huge challenge
Buy polyethylene dropper bottles and pipettes without rubber bulbs. To clean the pipette, cut an X in the round end, using scissors. Squeeze the end while pouring distilled water through it. To feed, put your thumb on it. Use stainless steel or HDPE pans, bowls, water dish and cutlery.
Wipe her dishes with an uncolored, unfragranced paper towel after rinsing in distilled water (not your tap water) or discard.
First of all, provide clean water. This means chlorine-free, heavy metal-free, asbestos-free, solvent-free, dye-free, motor oil-free. Such water does not exist. Your own tap water has all of these and cat must have none. Immediately call some friends who live in a rainy area and ask for two quarts of rainwater collected in plastic zippered bags, or stainless steel, or HDPE containers. Have it shipped in the original plastic bags placed inside other containers for leak proof shipping. But it should not be collected until it has been raining about 1/2 hour to be sure any chemicals have already rained down. When it arrives test for strontium beryllium, vanadium and chromium.
While you are waiting for rainwater, pour her distilled, home-filtered water into a stainless steel or HDPE bowl. Replace it every day. Such water absorbs the air quickly and tastes pungent with air pollutants and carbon dioxide from your kitchen. Pour hers fresh several times a day. As soon as the rainwater arrives, and if it is free of toxic metals, replace the bottled water or give both. Only now have you provided clean water. Rainwater provides the iridium healing factor. You should not filter this out; but if air pollutants exist, you must filter it through your filter pitcher.
If she does not lap any of it give her a dropper-full every hour using the PE pipette and slipping the pipette through the sides of her jaws. The water should be room temperature, not refrigerated, although your supply of rainwater should be refrigerated. Do not give her any rainwater shipped in glass, plastic or other containers. If you are feeding by pipette, put one drop of Lugol's iodine into 1/2 cup of cat's water. Keep this in a separate plastic bag. Do not let cat smell the Lugol's water or she will suspect you of tampering. Give one dropper-full of the Lugol's water 4 times a day. Use a different dropper for the plain non-Lugol's water.
As soon as you have given her rainwater, you will have provided healing water, as she should have. In 2 days the new water will have exchanged with her own toxic body water. If your can't get any Lugol's water down her, give only the pure water. We will sneak the Lugol's into her food later. The purpose is to kill salmonella bacteria in her body.
Feed nothing canned, packaged or frozen. It was all disinfected with chlorine bleach, likely of the laundry variety. Cook her food from scratch. Buy a whole turkey, free-range, organic; lamb free-range, organic; or free-range, organic beef or buffalo. Cook all the meat till it falls off the bones. Cook regularly in a stainless steel pan, using her pure water and no salt. After cooling, divide up the meat into single portions. Package each in double zippered bags for freezing, then in a larger sealed bag to keep out freezer odor. Throw nothing away, including the fat. Before serving cut the meat into very small pieces that she can lick and swallow without chewing.
All other meat will need to be detoxified of its laundry bleach. Purchase an ozonator and zappicator. You can build your own zappicator.
Arrange to ozonate on the counter top in a plastic shopping bag. Open but do not unwrap any food. Hang the ozonator hose into the bag, not into any food. Close the bag with a twist tie, including the hose, to keep the ozone inside. When it is turned on you should see the bag puff out slightly, showing that a slight pressure has developed. All the better to penetrate butter, meat, and tall containers of cream. Turn off ozonator after 7 minutes. Close all containers and set on zappicator to give the food a north polarization for 10 minutes.
Meats and butter need a final soak in cold water right after ozonating. Use separate HDPE bowls. Each will float. Heavy metals from the laundry bleach spray will dissolve in the water and soak out in 5 minutes after they have been oxidized by the ozonator. Flip the foods over and soak another 5 minutes. Shake dry and package in triple zipped bags for the freezer. They will keep a fresh taste much longer now! Leftover ozone can be blown away while reheating later.
Reheat frozen food in hot water, not the microwave. A higher temperature oxidizes the minerals she needs. Fill a larger size stainless steel pan, that can float an HDPE bowl, up to 1" with distilled water. Do not contaminate her dishes with your tap water. If you do, discard them. Place frozen food in the bowl. Heat at moderate setting, covered. This is almost as fast as the microwave.
Cook where cat can smell your cooking.
Feed nothing else, not even a crumb of previous food.
Keep it all out of sight. You, as the doctor, must stand your ground. Choose IV feedings if you think she is starving but otherwise feed by dropper and wait. Pour any broth and drippings into a plastic bag for storage and feed by dropper. If cat does not start to eat, switch to bone marrow. Serve a portion, the size of a marble, of lamb bone marrow that your dig out of one of the bones. Walk away to let her try to eat along for 15 minutes. If nothing is eaten, prepare the mixtures below to feed by dropper. Prepare each one in a large stainless steel spoon that does not seep. Wipe clean later.
Feed only this special turkey and lamb for 2 days. Do not substitute other meats. (Remember these were selected to avoid linolenic and lauric acid which nurture Strongyloides and trigger CMV and other viruses. These are particularly common in cats.). If cat is willing to eat more of it, continue day after day. Other meat has all been sprayed with bleach and dipped in red dyes called "Beef Blood". Foods that have been ozonated will need to outgas before serving. Thaw and warm them briefly. Supplements will be fed by dropper, stirred into broth or drippings. Feed dropper after dropper-full as follows, stopping when she stops and trying again in an hour. Feed all of these once a day.
Daily Food Chart (use your own judgments for the amounts) Food Chart (use your own judgments for the amounts) Supplement Food
Do not give larger amounts of 8, 9, 10, even if she is willing to eat more.
Get all these feedings into her in a single day. If she vomits she will feel much better and might eat more for you right afterwards. Feed right away again, to take advantage of this "settled" period. Choose 8, 9 and 10 preferentially. Do not force feed without a vets' help. She could easily choke. Let her swallow little bits.
Watch for detox-symptoms. If she develops a fever it is Salmonella: give 1/2 drop Lugol's, 6 times daily (put 1 drop in a spoonful of water or cream and draw up half of it). If she develops sneezing and aching, give 1/4 tube Oscillococcinum. If she staggers and stares, it is prions; give her Reischi mushroom, a pinch in each dropper full of food.
Feed water with Lugol's between the food feedings if she will take it; plain water if not.
On the second or third day, if she has not moved her bowels, ask a vet to teach you how to give a cat or dog and enema. Use the correct equipment or ask your vet to help.
Empty the bowel first with 1 or 2 pre enemas of Lugol's water (2 drops Lugol's in 1/4 cup of very warm water), adjusting the volume to whatever will stimulate a bowel movement. Insert the rubber hose (plastic is too stiff), lubricated with butter, filled with the Lugol's enema solution but closed off at the valve. Do not fill cat with air accidentally.
After she expels this, repeat right away, this time filled with the real enema solution.
First let in 1/2 capsule coenzyme Q10 dissolved in 2 tbsp. very warm water. Run it in slowly not to cause the bowel to move again. Next, run in 2 capsules turmeric stirred into 2 tbsp, very warm water. Run it in slowly not to cause the bowel to expel. it. If it is expelled, repeat immediately with less water, warmer temperature and slower input. Use well buttered soft rubber tubing to be sure no pushing is felt. At the end of the turmeric dose, add 2 drops straight Lugol's solution to the tube to enter last. Be patient, to avoid any expulsion. Encourage pet to doze off if possible. Cover pet with blanket.
The total volume of enema liquid should be small enough to be totally absorbed. The back-to-back technique for the ingredients of this super enema provides the various substances needed in two forms: separate and mixed. Each form acts on a different virus, so that 2 forms become 3 different treatments. We must kill free bacteria, free viruses, viruses inside bacteria, viruses inside tumor cells (oncoviruses), free parasites, parasite stages in the white blood cells and more, each quite difficult to kill. And all this with a huge handicap: cat's white blood cells are full of motor oil, wheel bearing grease, heavy metals, and synthetic dyes, just like ours, which paralyze them. Her immunodepression has allowed parasites to increase; these bring their oncoviruses; the oncoviruses infect her intestinal bacteria, which extends their lives and gives them roaming right. It then allows these super-bacteria to infect cat's body cells and white blood cells, handing on their oncoviruses to each. Cells with so many virus-induced alterations are useless for metabolism which requires numerous enzymes to be made in very specific ways. But cell division is made easier, which is exactly the purpose of viruses (to trigger cell division so they will be reproduced). To kill free and sheltered viruses of different kinds inside a variety of bacteria and tumor cells simultaneously, a dozen clinical treatments would be needed. The herbal enema does it in several treatments and is mild, without side-effects.
If she does not seem much better the day after the enema, give another one, this time adding 2 capsules of fennel at the end, followed by Lugol's.
Do not try to kill parasites with drugs at the same time as herbs. The systemic effect of killing massive amounts of parasites in the tissues would leave too great a toxicity behind. The herbal enema way acts mostly on the intestinal tract, which has an exit. Tissues do not. the return of immune power and the starvation of parasites will be relied on to kill parasites in the tissues, because this causes much less toxicity.
Part II of curing cat's cancer is homeographic. This part may not be necessary if cat is already getting better. But if she is not getting better or has not begun to eat, it is very necessary. Use polyethylene dropper bottles (with built-in dropper cap, not rubber), your rainwater or distilled-filtered water and a Positive offset zapper. We will make organ drops and take-out drops. You can construct the device easily, or purchase it.
If we can remove dyes, heavy metals and wheel bearing grease from cat's kidneys, kidney WBCs, lymph, and organ with tumor, she can do the rest. We will not need to remove the asbestos, PCBs, and benzene, as is necessary for humans.
Make all your "bottles" in the convenient form of 1/2 oz. polyethylene dropper bottles so no pouring needs to be done. Caps can not be switched, no water added; in fact, nothing can be done to a bottle of drops, once made, without ruining them. But the bottles can be rinsed and reused. They are colored brown to prevent light penetration. Light changes the polarization. Do not refrigerate them, nor set them within inches of a magnet or other electronic equipment Make these first.:
Give cat 3 drops as soon as each bottle is made, not 6, as for humans. Leave 1 minute or more between different drops. They can cancel each other out if mixed in the mouth. They should not be given in the back of the mouth, but rather in front. Merely bare the teeth and let drops fall on top of them or on gums or inside lip. Do not touch her mouth with the dropper. If this happens, rinse the dropper and use a new dry one, otherwise it will destroy the whole bottle.
Give drops 6 times a day for 2 days, then once a day for 1 week or until she is too well to cooperate.
Often taking-out wheel bearing grease takes out dyes, heavy metals, and motor oil with it. You could tell by checking urine. If any of these is still present in the saliva after 4 days, she is still eating them! Search water, food, supplements and medicine.
Pets are surprisingly responsive to even a little bit of help for their health. Just a few days of removing oxidized elements (metals) and greasy insulators that block innervation may be all that is needed to bring back life and energy. The reduced elements that are essential as minerals for life will be arriving in food.
Part III of curing cat's cancer is electrical, called zapping.
Zapping is another way to empower your pet to shed its parasites, conquer bacteria, remove viruses and somehow, almost miraculously, to become well again. It only seems miraculous to us when the mechanism is not understood. But cat cannot wait. Her life is dear and should not be sacrificed in the name of science or what it is not. Animals should not become victims of a backward, albeit sophisticated, medical science or attitude. Cat is counting on your common sense.
A small pulse of positive voltage applied to the skin repeatedly empowers the white blood cells to overcome their obstacles and devour whatever enemy is nearby. But to accomplish this the white blood cells must have been nourished with organic germanium, selenite and vitamin C (rose hips) to do their job. These 3 WBC-foods are the highest priority treatments.
Zapping a pet is easy when they enjoy it. Cats and dogs seem to feel playful right after zapping, or at least energized. Collars and holders for zappers have been designed, but holding your pet's paws on the damp electrodes is the simplest way. You can avoid draining any of the current into yourself by wearing plastic gloves or holding the copper tubes with a plastic sheet cut from a grocery bag. A few minutes of zapping, done repeatedly, throughout the day has an additive effect. Soon your pet may be strong enough to vomit and move the bowels, showing her innervation is coming back. She may go for a little walk, search for a different bedding place, jump on the couch, or wish to see what is going on. You are gaining ground. Now cat will want different food. She will rebel against any medicines and resist all treatments. It is a mark of recovery. You will need to be more ingenious.
Cat cannot be set free yet; recovery is not yet certain. Taking parasite-killing herbs, doing virus-killing enemas, taking dyes and automotive grease out of kidneys and their WBCs, besides zapping...while drinking clean water and eating food that can be completely digested is a poweful approach. Cats and dogs rally easily. But going back to her former food and water would be disastrous. She is handicapped, probably for her lifetime. For slow, long-term improvement, ask your vet about giving DMSO, by mouth, 1 drop daily. I find it superb and without toxicity when given in a dropper full of cool water, on an empty stomach. It will dissolve and mobilize her automotive greases so she can excrete them slowly and steadily. But it is not essential for getting well. And you must give kidney drops, once a day, too, with this long-term DMSO treatment. If you are her human-parent and her natural doctor, you must set the rules for her freedoms and health routine.
Cat doses need to be doubled for dogs.
(From: "The Prevention of All Cancers", p.441ff.; Copyright notice)
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